Posts Tagged ‘culinary school’

10 Cooking: Exhaustion Takes a Seat

Wednesday, November 4th, 2009

The tears are beginning to fall

The tears are beginning to fall

Now that we’re about to move into our new stations, the constant pressure is beginning to show. Several people have mentioned that they’re not sure what they’re doing in this class. “I don’t intend to work in a restaurant” is a common refrain. Many of us joined up to learn to cook well, and what we’ve been exposed to is the grundgiest side of the restaurant business: the conflicts among different personalities, the constant greasy clean-up, petty jealousies and continual time pressure—put that together with being relegated to one station at a time, making one thing over and over rather than learning a lot of different techniques—some of my fellow students are headed for the door. I’m not among them. The adrenalin rush of having to put up or shut up within a short period of time (you burned it? Make it again, and quick!), combined with the hurried atmosphere of people rushing about, all bent on making it all come together by 11:30 (when the restaurant opens) is strangely addictive. Plus, I’m actually learning a lot. The textbook is excellent, and just by being in the kitchen, I learn something new every day (no, my knife isn’t dull—it’s easier to cut a bell pepper through the soft inside rather than the tough skin. Duh.) Next: I become one with soup.

08 Cooking: A Crook with No Fingerprints is a Cook

Wednesday, October 21st, 2009

And it's almost Christmas again!

And it's almost Christmas again!

Remember that scene in The Polar Express (2005) where the waiters come in with hot chocolate and sing the “hot, hot” song? A lot of people sing it in the kitchen, along with  “sharps”, “knife”, and “behind you”.

The hottest place in the kitchen—and the most likely to do damage—is on “the line”—the sauté cook, griller, and griddler are all in a row, and all burners on the 25-foot line are on full-blast. It’s Death Valley sculpted in steel, coated with liberal amounts of clarified butter. The line cooks wait for an order to come in, and depending on what it is, can have several orders blazing away at once. It’s a lot of hurry-up-and-wait, and if you lose concentration, a lot of opportunities for 3rd degree burns. Most of us, if we’ve cooked before at all, have already managed to burn off our fingerprints by reaching for the pan/pot/utensil without thinking. Mystery writers could have a field day with this fact.

There’s also a sandwich station, which supplies the coffee shop; a garde manger station (pronounced “gard manJAY”—oh, you sound so French) for salads and cold appetizers; a prep team, who cut all the vegetables and do some of the other foundation preparation such as side dishes; the student meal team who come up with the eats, a student chef who finds out what the different stations need and makes a list each day, and yours truly—packing veges and herbs, “fabricating” meat, fish and poultry (yes, that’s what it’s called), making the occasional stock, and up to my elbows in soapy, greasy water at least three times a day. I brought in a little red devil rubber duck that sits on the sink dividers—patron saint of the pot sink. Next week, I’ll be student chef—I can’t tell whether I’m moving up or down in the world.

07 Cooking: Bitchin’ in the Kitchen/People Soup

Tuesday, September 29th, 2009

We line up for the student meal.

We line up for the student meal.

The knives truly come out after a few days. We have a few students who insist on instructing others—true fonts of un-requested advice and correction. A little knowledge is a dangerous thing. You haven’t lived until you’ve been busted by a Kitchen Nazi—I got it (rightfully) for not carrying my knife point down—a dumb move; fortunately I’m ignorant, not stupid. But free advice can be mighty unwelcome: it takes some longer than others to understand that unsolicited advice from someone who knows little more than you do is just plain annoying. The worst part is, sometimes it’s GOOD advice, but you become deaf to it because—well, if these people are in a beginning cooking class, why should you listen to them? Aren’t they there to learn too? Could they secretly be scouts for Iron Chef? How’s my hair?

Most students are hard workers who will pick up any job, no matter how messy—earning the respect and gratitude of others. Others, alas, have earned the sobriquets “Kitchen Barbie” and “debutante” (yes, that CAN be a guy) and their names are included in the phrase “Where’s …?”, always followed by an eye roll and derisive snort. This is the big kitchen Zen lesson, since it’s all about helping each other. There’s no squeaking by in the confines of the big gray room—EVERYBODY notices if you take frequent breaks, disappear, or don’t dive into the gross bits. And there are always gross bits, more than you’d ever suspect.

We’ve begun having student meals prepared by members of our class, which are close to heaven—just a few bucks for some decent-to-great chow and a variety of sinful desserts from the pastry people. Everyone is going to be on that station eventually, so what used to be complaints about “too much salt, not enough thyme” has turned into finding what’s right about the meals—what goes around etc. In this little hive, all the bees have stingers, but we can make some powerful honey, too.

02 Cooking: My Class: Assorted Nuts and Vegetables

Sunday, September 13th, 2009

My class—it’s mostly people roughly in their 20s-30s. I say roughly because I’ve already seen a few edges. The class, consisting of about 18 people, is a real microcosm of the City: Caucasian girls and guys of various ethnic backgrounds, a lone Hispanic, Black men, and Asian women. Several students struggle with English. I can’t imagine how difficult it must be to get along in a country where you barely speak the language while attempting to learn a complicated set of skills; this would be me at the Cordon Bleu in Paris. They’re doing better than I would. My grandmother spoke Ukrainian and Polish—when she came to America, she decided that two languages were enough, and never learned English, preferring to let her daughters do the talking.

Mirapoix--the base of bases

Mirapoix--the base of bases

It’s hard to tell who the ex-cons are. I’m not going to ask. Everyone is broke, which is comforting.

Thus far I’ve learned that pretty nearly every type of food can make you very, very sick and many kitchen machines are out to get you. Those really big machines are scary–the steam kettle (which is jacketed with a steam chamber to raise the temperature around the entire kettle) is the size of a hot tub. Remember to wash your hands 15 seconds with soap (sing “Happy Birthday” to yourself twice).

We’re going to start cooking soon. Look for the perfect fond (French for “foundation”) in the near future. It’s stock, of course, made from scratch. I don’t have to tell you that most commercial stock (those little cubes, jars etc.) are almost entirely made of salt. The real stuff always starts with mirapoix, a fancy name for the vegetables in the picture above…